It is highly recommended that owners who will be vacating their units for the fall and winter seasons, or not using their units for intervals of time during the colder weather, perform winterizing of their units. Failure to do so could lead to a catastrophic situation if temperatures drop low enough that residual water in the pipes freezes. The freezing water might rupture the pipes in one or more places, resulting in a destructive leak once temperature rise.

It is also important, if units are used during the cold weather, after having been winterized, that caution be followed in opening up a unit for use. If the temperature is or has recently been low enough, the drained pipes may be sitting at a temperature below freezing and the sudden application of water by turning on the main water valve, could result in incoming water freezing when it contacts the cold pipes, and again causung a pipe rupture. Opening a water valve in cold weather should only be done after the heat has been on in a unit for a while long enough to cause any pipes to warm up above the freezing point.

It is highly recommended that a professional service (such as our maintenance contractor or a licensed plumber) be contacted to perform the winterizing service.

In the event that owners wish to do their own winterizing the following summary guidelines are provided, however, they serve as a suggested process only. It is strongly recommended to use them only after arranging for a contractor or a licensed plumber to train the owners on the proper way to perform the process.

Winterizing Guidelines

1. Water heater should first be turned to OFF at the circuit breaker panel.
2. Cold water faucets should be opened (turned ON).
3. The outside stop-waste water valve should be rotated 90 degrees to the OFF position, then an open faucet checked to see that water flow has stopped.
4. Compressed air should then be blown through the lines with all the cold water faucets turned ON. This can be accomplished in the lower units by connecting the compressed air source to the outside hose bib. An upper unit requires that compressed air be connected to any one of the open cold water faucets.
5. Open all hot water faucets.
6. Drain the water heater. There is a hose connection at the bottom of the water heater, the other end of the hose can be placed in the nearest toilet.
7. Using any hot water faucet, repeat step 4. (Note: in a lower unit, the compressor must be connected to any inside hot water faucet instead of the outside hose bib.)
8. Pour a small (one cup is perfect) of non-toxic anti-freeze into all drains to protect traps from freezing.

9. Dishwasher:
a. Turn the dishwasher to the start position and turn ON.
b. Force air into the system (water lines at the the sink faucet) and listen for airflow into the dishwasher. The air should force all water out of the dishwasher supply lines.
c. For the dishwasher trap: Pour in non-toxic anti-freeze into the bottom of the dishwasher and turn the pump ON.
d. While pumping water out of the dishwasher, listen for flow under the kitchen sink. When you hear nothing flowing through the pipes, the trap should be empty.

10. Washing Machine:
a. Turn the washing machine to the SPIN cycle. You should hear no water running through the lines.
b. Disconnect hot and cold water lines at the faucets.
c. Place a small amount of non-toxic anti-freeze in the trap.

Once more, winterizing is very important and doing it properly is equally important. For that reason, we recommend it be done professionally.

Sundance Industrial's fee for winterizing, the last time we checked, was $60.00 and includes de-winterizing (turning on the water and checking for any leaks due to dried seals or gaskets) is included in the fee.

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